Upland Gate ★For centuries this was the way into Gdańsk. The gate was completed in 1588 by Willem van den Blocke, who faced it with dressed stone blocks. This is where the Royal Route began: Polish kings were handed the keys to the city here and rode on down Długa Street. Above the passages you will see three coats of arms: Poland in the middle, with Gdańsk and Royal Prussia at the sides. Look for the eagle and for two crosses under a crown.
Golden Gate ★This gate from 1612 looks like a triumphal arch and was never meant for defence, only for show. It was designed by Abraham van den Blocke. Eight stone figures stand on top: Peace, Freedom, Wealth and Fame on the side facing the Torture House, and Concord, Justice, Piety and Prudence facing Długa Street. The Latin inscription says that small states grow through concord and great ones fall through discord. The building with a turret attached to the gate is the Court of the Brotherhood of St George, and on its roof the saint is fighting a dragon.
Main Town Hall ★For centuries the richest city of the Polish Commonwealth was governed from here. The Town Hall is the second tallest building in the Main Town, right after St Mary's Church, and its tower is more than 80 metres high. On the very top stands a gilded figure of King Sigismund Augustus. A carillon, an instrument of 37 bells, plays from the tower, and in summer you can climb to the viewing terrace. Inside is the Museum of Gdańsk with the Red Room, one of the most beautiful town hall chambers in Europe. Look up and find the golden king.
Artus Court ★This is where the richest merchants of Gdańsk met guests from all over Europe. The name comes from the legendary King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table, where everyone was equal. Craftsmen and stallholders, however, were not allowed in. The first court stood here in the mid-14th century, and its present front was given to it in 1617 by Abraham van den Blocke. In the great hall stands a tiled stove almost 11 metres tall, made of more than 500 tiles. On the front, look for four statues of ancient heroes.
Green Gate ★A gate that looks like a palace, because it was meant to be the Gdańsk home of the Polish kings. It was built between 1564 and 1568 from small bricks brought by ship from Holland. The kings, however, preferred to stay in the townhouses on the Long Market, and none of them ever lodged here for long. The gate closes the Royal Route: its four passages lead straight onto the bridge and the Motława River. Above the passages, look for the coats of arms of Poland, Gdańsk and Royal Prussia.
St Mary's Basilica ★One of the largest brick churches in the world. It took more than 150 years to build, from 1346 to 1502, and 25,000 people can fit inside. The interior is bright and white, because the tall windows let in plenty of light. Here stands an astronomical clock from the 15th century that shows the hours, the days, the phases of the Moon and the signs of the zodiac. More than 400 steps lead up the tower, and from the top you can see the whole city and the port. Find the clock in the church and look for your zodiac sign on it.
The Crane ★The largest and oldest surviving port crane of medieval Europe, and a city gate at the same time. It was built between 1442 and 1444. Inside turn two pairs of wooden wheels about six metres across, driven by men who walked inside them like hamsters in a wheel. The Crane could lift two tonnes to a height of 27 metres, loaded goods onto ships and raised their masts. It burned down in 1945 and was rebuilt, and today it is part of the National Maritime Museum. Moored across the river is the Sołdek, the first ship built in Poland after the war. Spot the rope and the hook under the roof.
Market Hall ★This brick hall with turrets looks like a castle, but it is simply a market. It opened in 1896 so that trade could move from the streets and squares under a roof. Before that a Dominican monastery stood here, destroyed in 1813. During the renovation of the hall, archaeologists uncovered beneath the floor the foundations of the oldest church of St Nicholas, more than 800 years old, and you can see them in the basement. Upstairs people still buy vegetables, cheese, fish and flowers. Go inside and find out what it smells of.
Great Armoury ★The most beautiful warehouse in the city. In the early 17th century Gdańsk feared war with Sweden and needed somewhere to keep cannons, cannonballs and armour. The townspeople did not want a plain shed, though, and commissioned Anthonis van Obbergen to design a building modelled on the meat hall in Haarlem in Holland, in red brick and pale stone. Cannons stood on the ground floor and lighter weapons were stored above. Today students of the Academy of Fine Arts study here. This is where the walk ends: the Upland Gate is a few minutes away. On the front, look for Minerva, the goddess in a helmet.
Torture House and Prison TowerIn the Middle Ages these two brick buildings, joined by a wall, guarded the entrance to Długa Street. Once the city built new ramparts they were no longer needed for defence and were turned into a courtroom, a prison and a torture chamber. Hence the names: the Torture House and the Prison Tower. Beside the tower stood the pillory, where punishments were carried out in front of the whole town. On the wall of the Torture House, look for a stone figure with no head.
Uphagen HouseThe townhouse at 12 Długa Street shows how a wealthy Gdańsk merchant lived in the 18th century. Johann Uphagen, a lover of books and history, bought it in 1775 and furnished it to his taste. He insisted that the interiors stay unchanged after his death, which is why a museum opened here more than a hundred years ago. Inside are a drawing room, a dining room and a kitchen, and the walls of the rooms are decorated with painted insects, birds and flowers. Count the windows in the narrow front.
Golden HouseThe most ornate house on the Long Market. It was built between 1609 and 1618 for Mayor Johann Speymann to a design by Abraham van den Blocke. The whole front is covered with gilded reliefs: battle scenes and likenesses of rulers, among them the Polish kings Władysław Jagiełło and Sigismund III Vasa. Four statues stand at the very top, and above them Fortuna, the goddess of luck. Count how many storeys the golden front has.
Chlebnicka GateThe oldest of the Gothic water gates on the Motława, dating from the 15th century. Gates like this closed off every street leading to the quay: by day porters carried goods through them, and at night they were locked. Above the passage on the river side you can see the coat of arms of Gdańsk still without the crown, which the city received from King Casimir IV Jagiellon in 1457. On the street side a lily is carved, the old emblem of the dukes of Pomerania. Compare this coat of arms with those on the other gates.
St Mary's GateThis gate from the late 15th century leads from the quay into the prettiest little street in Gdańsk. On the river side you will see three coats of arms: Poland in the middle, with Gdańsk and Royal Prussia at the sides, tilted as if bowing to it. On the street side the city's arms are held by two lions. The tall house with a turret next door is the Naturalists' House, now home to the Archaeological Museum, and its tower has a view over the Motława. Walk under the gate and look for the lions.
Royal ChapelThe only Baroque church in the Main Town. It was built between 1678 and 1681, when St Mary's belonged to the Protestants and the Catholics of Gdańsk had nowhere to pray. King John III Sobieski supported the building work, hence the name and the king's coat of arms on the front. The chapel itself is on the upper floor, under the dome, while the priests lived on the ground floor. Look for the royal crown on the front.
St John's ChurchA Gothic church first mentioned in 1358. It stands on marshy ground and has been sinking for centuries: the east wall leaned almost a metre out of true and in 1679 had to be propped up with massive buttresses. In 1945 the church burned down and stood empty for decades. Today it houses the St John's Centre, with concerts and exhibitions. Inside, a great stone altar from four hundred years ago has survived. Walk around the church and look for the leaning wall.
St Nicholas' BasilicaThe only church in central Gdańsk that came through the war undamaged. That is why inside you will see what you cannot find anywhere else in the city: old altars, a pulpit, an organ and paintings several hundred years old. In 1227 Duke Świętopełk gave the church of St Nicholas to the Dominicans. In 1260 they received a privilege from the Pope that gave rise to St Dominic's Fair, still the biggest trading festival in Gdańsk. Step in quietly and look for the gilded altars.
Jacek TowerThe tallest of Gdańsk's medieval towers: with its weathervane it measures 36 metres. It was built around 1400 at the corner of the city walls so that guards could see from above what was happening outside. At ground level the walls are two and a half metres thick. The people of Gdańsk jokingly called it “Peek into the Kitchen”, because from the top you could look into the pots in the kitchen of the Dominican monastery. Count the sides of the tower. There should be eight.